Makeup+in+Kabuki+by+Cari+Favole


 * __[[image:kabuki1a.jpg width="465" height="185"]]

Make-up in Kabuki__** //By: Cari Favole//

 A very important aspect of Kabuki is the make-up, or keshou. Putting on the keshou is called "kao o tsukuru" or literally "to make a face" (1). Applying the keshou is not only important to complete the costume, but essential for the actor to get into character. Although the make-up seems very abstract, the markings on the face are to symbolize the veins on the face and it is believed that the make-up helps with expressing the actor's emotions. Although there is some controversy as to which forms, it is believed that the keshou is based off of other older arts, such as the Noh masks and Bunraku (the Puppet theatre). Some believe that Kabuki was started in the 7th century when a Korean brought Gigako to Japan. While the Gigako masks may be influential, several authorities disagree with this statement (4). The painted face is used in Chinese theatre; however the main difference is that the Chinese arts paint the desired image on the face, while Kabuki works with the actor's individual bone and facial structure, to accentuate natural shadows and lines on the face (4).

There are numerous styles of keshou, all with their own techniques and characteristics. For example, the onnagata, or female-role actors, will paint very small, red lips over their own lips, since this is a sign of attractiveness. The face will be covered with oshiroi (white base color) and the eyes will be emphasized with red highlights. Usually the onnagata will shave his eyebrows and paint on new ones for his character; red coloring is applied before the black for the eyebrows. To avoid getting the oshiroi on the wig, the tops of the ears will not have the makeup applied; however makeup will be applied as far as the tops of the shoulder blades, as certain outfits will show the neck (especially with the onnagata, as this is also an attractive feature). For a brief interview and a presentation of putting on the face, watch: []



The onnagata keshou can be filed under the "standard makeup" that most characters fall under (2). There is a second type, the Kumadori [taken from "kuma" which means wrinkles and "toru" which means "to follow" (1)], that is used for special characters, like heroes and villains; it is most commonly used with the aragoto ("reckless warrior") style (3). As Michael Spencer describes on his website "The Kabuki Story", the coloring of the kumadori carries much symbolism and expresses the character's personality and temperament. Provided below explains the color significance:
 * //beni// (deep red) || anger, indignation, forcefulness, obstinacy ||
 * //beni// (red) || activeness, eagerness, passion, vigour ||
 * //usuaka// (pink or pale red) || cheerfulness, youthfulness, gaiety ||
 * //asagi// (light blue) || calmness, coolness, composure ||
 * //ai// (indigo) || melancholy, gloominess ||
 * //midori// (very light green) || tranquillity ||
 * //murasaki// (purple) || sublimity, nobility, loftiness ||
 * //taisha// (brown or burnt sienna) || selfishness, egotism, dejection ||
 * //usuzumii// (grey on chin) || dreariness, cheerlessness ||
 * //sumi// (black) || fear, terror, fright, gloom ||

In the play //Kanjincho //, there are no characters with the kumadori keshou; Benkei, Tokashi and the other warriors all fall under the standard makeup style. Each actor applies their makeup on themselves in their own dressing room, first, oil is applied to the face and then the oshiroi is painted on with a brush similar to a shaving brush (2). Then, with smaller painter-like brushes the vibrant red and the bold black are applied on the lips, eyes and eyebrows.

As stated previously, the aragoto kumadori is used for special characters, and is probably one of the most recognizable features of Kabuki. The exaggerated red lines symbolize veins popping from the face, which represents the "brashness, vitality and masculine vigour" of the characters (5). These characters also exaggerate every aspect of themselves, including vocal and physical gestures. Kumadori is applied the same way as the others with the red ink following the natural creases of the face. Accurate visual examples are hard to come by, as Kumadori inspires many artists to try new and exciting things. However, this is a Western take on applying kabuki makeup: []

The makeup is also important, not only as a way to visually describe the character's personality and to enhance their emotions, but also for the audience to recognize the characters and the actors who play them; woodblocks will be made to advertise which plays will be performed. Pictured below is “Ichikawa Danshiro as Benkei in Kanjincho”

Although very stylized, Kabuki's makeup completes each character and enhances the features that best suits their personality.

Accurate visual examples are hard to come by, as Kumadori inspires many artists to try new and exciting things. However, this is a Western take on applying kabuki makeup: []

(1) [] (2) [] (3) [] (4) Shaver, Ruth M. __Kabuki Costume__. Charles E. Tutle Co. Inc, Japan 1966. (5) []
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